Saturday, 11 August 2012

The Ardennes Offensive 2008



Update to come soon.
The Somme 2007



After last years trip to Ypres, the other great killing field of recent British was next. The Somme is perhaps more synonymous with the industrial nature of death on the Western Front than Ypres as it's perceived as a shorter timescale by many. "The first day of the Somme" is regularly quoted to exemplify the barbarity and waste of war. While this is undeniably true, (the 1st of July 1916 is still the worst day in the history of the British Army) the battle was much more of a slog than this snapshot shows.

The Battle of the Somme officially took place between the 1st of July 1916 and the 18th of November 1916. Nobody won, land that was gained in the early days was soon lost and this giant stalemate cost over a million men either their life, or a serious wound of one sort or another. Prior to this the area was considered a quiet sector of the front, and whilst not exactly peaceful, was a respite from the unrelenting slog of Ypres to the north and Verdun to the south.

Great technological and tactical leaps took place in those months, along with a change of attitude from the public. The tank made its debut, provoking alarm at first, but the terrain and tactics employed was to prove not best suited for this future battle winner. The use of a 'creeping barrage' greatly increased the usefulness of artillery and while successful here, would lead to victories in the future. The public mood of patriotic fervour would be sorely tested by the huge numbers of casualties in such a small period of time, and it could be argued that the army itself was tested by the conditions. In 1914 and 1915 there were 56 executions for desertion, leaving your post or cowardice. In 1916 there were 83, and 94 in 1917.

The Somme today is a mixture of small villages, small towns, and a smattering of small cities. The vast majority of the land is picturesque rolling farmland. There's much to tempt the holiday maker other than history. Cycling and walking holidays are very popular (but some of the hills would put me off biking it!), but the area is festooned with sights and destinations relating to the calamitous conflict that occurred in 1916.

We were based in the village of Beaucourt-sur-l'Ancre in this ideal gite. It was handily placed, being at the heart of the main areas of battle including Beaumont Hamel, Thiepval and Pozieres. Throughout the week we travelled far and wide, from Arras and Vimy in the north, Villers-Bretonneux in the south and west and Peronne in the south and east the now peaceful land threw up continual tales of death, destruction and woe.

We drove over this year, on an overnight motorway, morning ferry combination. En route we called in at a cemetery near Ypres. Steve had discovered a relative who was buried there since our trip last year and wanted to pay his respects. He found out quite a lot about his life and recorded it here.

We also called in at La Coupole for a very tired visit. Stu, who sleeps at every given opportunity was zombie like, I felt as if I'd had about fifteen pints without the enjoyment associated and the others just kipped. There's only me who never hits the wall...

To see my pictures from the trip, please click here.